The Heart of the Wilderness

June 20, 2014
Mono Pass Trail, Yosemite National Park
Total distance walked:  9.1 miles

The night before my first trip of the year to the high country, I found myself wide awake, too excited to sleep. It felt like Christmas Eve, waiting for Santa. As I glanced at the clock and saw it was just before midnight, I knew I should’ve been fast asleep. Instead, my mind was busy tracing the route I’d take, mentally packing my backpack, and worrying about my knee acting up. After two hours of tossing, turning, and fluffing pillows, I finally drifted off to sleep.

In a previous post, I mentioned that one of my motivations for hiking was to enjoy the views. Although I’ve hiked this trail before to see the mining relics, this time my focus was on observing nature’s sights and sounds—the heart of the wilderness.

The weather couldn’t have been better for hiking: a crisp 57 degrees at the Mono Pass trailhead in Yosemite National Park, at an elevation of 9,700 feet. Contrails painted the sky above, while the distant roar of jets resembled rolling thunder.

The soft, flat trail through the lush Dana Meadows was inviting. As I walked briskly, I spotted only a few wildflowers. I paused before crossing the rushing Dana Fork creek to put on my new aqua socks. Wading through the icy, ankle-deep water, my feet quickly numbed. On the return trip, I planned to cross on the log.

After a couple of miles, the dirt trail began to ascend, climbing several hundred feet through the forest. Many of the trees displayed “snow knee”—a distinctive bend formed when young trees are pushed over by snow. As they grow, they reach upwards towards the sun, but the bend remains.

As I continued along the trail, I passed by century-old cabins, met day-hikers and backpackers, heard the melodies of birds, the buzz of insects, and the rush of water. I also noticed more wildflowers basking in the sun among the rocks.

The trail reached its highest point as I emerged from the tranquil forest, revealing the snow-dappled Kuna Crest in all its glory.

At a junction, I chose not to take the Parker Pass trail towards Spillway Lake where a large group was huddled, examining something in the grass. Instead, I continued forward, walking in the intense sun and drying wind, towards Summit Lake and Mono Pass.

A wooden trail sign indicated that I was leaving Yosemite National Park and entering the Ansel Adams Wilderness within the Inyo National Forest.

Navigating the rocky slopes, I carefully stepped over and around countless protruding rocks. Veering off the trail to explore, I strolled through hills covered in dry, dun-colored grass. Mosquitoes nipped at my arms and legs until a gust of wind outsmarted them. I hopped over temporary tributaries and climbed onto red, iron-oxidized rocks. Eventually, I made my way around large patches of sun-cupped snow, returning to the trail at Summit Lake, where a weathered USGS marker indicated an elevation of 10,599 feet.

Walking over Mono Pass toward Sardine Lakes, I caught sight of the distant Mono Lake. Realizing it was nearly one o’clock and I still hadn’t had lunch, I found a surprisingly comfortable boulder facing the lake and settled down to eat.

After a brief rest on the rock, I began the journey back. Along the way, I watched a large deer grazing in the expansive meadow and directed a couple of hikers to the mining relics they were seeking. Back in Dana Meadows, I noticed hundreds of tiny shooting stars that I had missed earlier. As I bent down to photograph them, I realized how strong my legs and knees felt, even after an 800-foot descent. There was no need for the worries I had the night before.

Starting out on the trail alone is a challenge I often face, particularly on the first hike of the season. However, as John Muir wisely noted, “Only by going alone in the silence can one truly get into the heart of the wilderness.” As I headed back home, I knew that the serenity and beauty of the wilderness would call me back again soon.