August 15 – 17, 2014
Lyell Canyon, Yosemite National Park
Total distance walked: 14.6 miles

DAY ONE

The car brakes squealed as we came to a stop at the River Restaurant nestled in the small village of El Portal just beyond the boundaries of Yosemite National Park. Jasmine, Anthony, Julia, Chris and I indulged in a sumptuous buffet breakfast before setting off on our hike.

Being new to backpacking and camping, Jasmine was puzzled over how to fit her self-inflating sleeping pad inside her sleeping bag. I chuckled and explained that the sleeping bag should go on top of the pad, not the other way around. From that moment, I had a feeling this trip was going to be full of amusing adventures.

The road leading to the high country was mercifully free of traffic, but as we approached the large parking lot west of the trailhead, we found it packed with vehicles. We managed to snag the last available spot. Leaving the car behind, we hoisted our bulging packs loaded with bear canisters, food, tents, flashlights, and other essential backcountry gear onto our shoulders. Our packs weighed close to 30 pounds each.

With the determination of pack animals, we trudged along the trail, our bodies gradually adjusting to the additional weight of our packs and the higher elevation of 8,600 feet.

At the Twin Bridges area, we were intercepted by a ranger, whom we jokingly dubbed “Rick” (not his real name).

Ranger Rick requested to see our Wilderness Use Permit which all backpackers are required to carry. I squatted under the weight of my cumbersome pack while Jasmine rummaged through the top pocket, searching for the crucial piece of paper that granted us the privilege to sleep in the park.

Once he was satisfied, the ranger quickly resumed his swift pace up the trail.

At the next trail marker, we noticed that Ranger Rick had stopped a solo backpacker who was without a permit. The backpacker could have faced a citation or a fine for not having a permit.

The majority of the trail was composed of soft, sandy terrain. As we made our way down to the canyon floor, the path broadened and became more open.

Discovered near the trail, fly agaric is recognized for its toxicity. It is also known for its hallucinogenic effects.

The map indicated that our path would follow the Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River. My concern grew as we passed an area resembling a dried-up pond. In the midst of California’s third year of drought, I worried that, like Rafferty Creek, the river might be dry. Without water, our plans would need to change drastically.

Following behind the group, I observed Chris take a sharp left into the meadow, with Julia, Jasmine, and Anthony trailing like ducklings. A narrow path meandered through the grassy carpet, leading to a sandy shore and a tranquil pool of water. Chris had discovered the perfect lunch spot and, fortunately, our water source. We settled on the bank of the crystal-clear river and enjoyed our lunch.

The day was drenched in sunlight with a deep blue sky overhead. The air was calm, and the grass had taken on a nearly brown hue.

Luckily, we encountered no mosquitoes as we strolled through a series of meadows and across sun-baked granite slabs that bordered the river.

Amelia Earhart Peak loomed ever closer and larger with each step we took. Tears filled my eyes as I gazed upon the glorious meadows and majestic mountains, knowing this would be our home away from home for the next few days.

A short while later, Chris discovered a flat campsite with an already established fire ring. We eagerly flung our packs to the ground and took a well-deserved rest.

In the meantime, a large group, mostly children, began setting up camp directly across from us. This prompted us to move on. We trekked up the hill towards Vogelsang High Sierra Camp and found another comfortable spot to settle. The cousins shared a tent that was pitched on a slant, but it hardly bothered them.

After setting up the tents and gathering water to boil, we settled into our makeshift camp furniture—boulders and logs near the fire pit. The cacophony of woodsy sounds mingled with our laughter, creating a delightful ambiance to end the day.

DAY TWO
Chris had been up for hours enjoying the solitude, the soft gray light of dawn and the lively banter of birds in the cool morning air.

The rest of us emerged from our tents around mid-morning. After having breakfast, attending to camp chores, and taking care of nature calls, we continued farther up the John Muir Trail to the river. The water was low, allowing us to cross it by stepping on the stones. The gravel sparkled at the shallow bottom as we waded through the water.

We leaned against a log in the mottled grass, soaking in the beauty of our surroundings.

We spent the entire afternoon reading, napping, laughing, and playing games like cards, dice, and 20 Questions. In the game of Threes Away, the one who lost had to haul water for the group.

Each night, we played a game called Roses, Buds, and Thorns. During this game, we shared the highlights of our day—Roses; things we would have changed—Buds; and the worst parts of our day—Thorns. Some of our favorite moments included having lunch by the water, admiring the beauty around us, reflecting in the meadow, exploring the scenic Twin Bridges area, and waking up early to be the first one up.

As the final light of day faded, the guys retreated to their tents. The girls remained by the fire, watching the flames flicker and dance while the stars lit up the night sky.

DAY THREE

It was time to depart. We stuffed our belongings back into the five packs and made good time hiking out. Around noon, we stopped at Tuolumne Meadows Grill. The line for food moved swiftly, unlike the bumper-to-bumper traffic leaving the park.

I was truly blessed to share this time in the wilderness with my husband, daughter, and extended family. My heartfelt hope is that Jasmine and Anthony have developed a love for Yosemite and an enduring enthusiasm for backpacking that will carry them through a lifetime of adventures.