April 28, 2015
Nevada Fall via John Muir Trail, Yosemite National Park
Total distance walked: 8.0 miles

Almost twenty years ago, I hiked the trail to Vernal Fall on my first visit to Yosemite National Park. Almost to the day, I found myself back on that same path. While much has changed over the years, one thing remains the same: to reach the falls from the valley, every trail leads uphill.

My goal for this hike was Nevada Fall. Rather than taking the Mist Trail, as Andrew and I had done in November 2013, I opted for the longer John Muir Trail. This route bypassed Vernal Fall and instead led me through the cool, shaded canopy of fragrant trees. There were many sets of steps to climb but none as steep as those on the Mist Trail.

The ascent was a slow, heart-pounding grind up two thousand feet, but I maintained a steady pace and counted each of the seventeen switchbacks leading to Clark Point. Although longer, this section of the trail was less crowded than the more direct route. I decided I would take a break at Clark Point.

As I rounded a switchback, I suddenly encountered a manmade stone retaining wall, hitting me like a ton of bricks. It was at that moment I realized all my focus had been on conquering the uphill climb, leaving me oblivious to the surrounding beauty of the trail.

Emerging from the woods at Clark Point, the view suddenly opened up before me. There, in all their glory, stood Half Dome, Mt. Broderick, and Liberty Cap with pointy Mt. Starr King in the distance. I couldn’t help but be captivated by the breathtaking beauty surrounding me.

With Nevada Fall just a mile away and visible from the trail, I decided to skip my break at Clark Point and continued up the hill, pressing on along the John Muir Trail.

The path hugged the mountainside, with a sturdy stone wall safeguarding the edge. Slushy snow from a recent storm was melting on the trail as I ascended to six thousand feet. Water dripped from the mountaintop like rain from the sky. To avoid getting soaked, I walked close to the wall and peeked over to take in the view. It was awesome.

At the brink of Nevada Fall, people milled about near the footbridge. Some chatted with a Search and Rescue ranger, while others sprawled out on large boulders, soaking up the sun.

I paused on the bridge at the brink of the fall, a 480-foot drop then crossed and continued walking along the surging river. Despite being hungry and needing a break, I didn’t want to stop. I slowed my pace and pressed on towards Little Yosemite Valley, a smaller valley one mile away, situated above Yosemite Valley proper.

Rather than heading up to Little Yosemite Valley, I found a secluded spot by the water. I soaked in the river’s beauty, then closed my eyes and listened to its powerful sound.

Lunch tasted exceptionally good. A squirrel begged for a morsel, slowly inching closer until I shooed him away without a bite. After packing up, I set out again, aware that the downhill trek would be easier on the heart but tougher on the knees.

Even though I didn’t need a break going uphill, I found myself sitting on a rock halfway down to rest my weary knees. As I gazed from my resting spot at Mt. Broderick and Liberty Cap, a hiker offered a sense of scale to their towering presence.

Birdsong filled the air. High up in the trees, one bird whistled a distinct call, which was answered by another. From a distance, a third bird responded, and farther away, barely audible, a fourth echoed the call. I realized how much I had missed while focusing on the uphill climb.

With the hike completed, I stopped to say hello to my daughter Julia, who just began her seventh season as a Yosemite ranger. Here’s a photo of Julia and me from our first trip to Yosemite almost twenty years ago. It’s incredible how much time has passed.

As I left the park, a sense of fulfillment washed over me. The hike had been challenging, but it also offered moments of reflection and beauty. It was a reminder of how much can change over the years, yet some things remain timeless, like the majestic landscapes of Yosemite. With a grateful heart and renewed spirit, I headed home, already dreaming of my next adventure in the great outdoors.