October 13, 2012
Wapama Falls, Yosemite National Park
Total distance walked:  5 miles

On one of the dreariest days of the month, I ventured out in search of signs of fall. Although I could have stayed home by the fire watching old movies, I felt the need to get out of the house and get some exercise.

The drive to Hetch Hetchy was slow. At 6,000 feet, the fog was so thick that I could barely see the road ahead. I remembered a backpacking trip one October when my brother-in-law teased, “It’s not fog, you’re in the clouds.” His words echoed in my mind as I crept along, the wipers sweeping away the liquid droplets of cloud from the windshield. I questioned my decision to venture out in such weather. Upon reaching the Hetch Hetchy entrance station, I told the Ranger that I had picked a bad day to visit. He disagreed, calling it a beautiful day, and advised me to drive carefully.

I bundled up warmly before stepping out of the car, then made my way across the O’Shaughnessy Dam and through the damp, dark tunnel.

The water level in Hetch Hetchy Reservoir was extremely low. The two waterfalls that feed into the reservoir, Tueeulala Fall and Wapama—the second most powerful waterfall in California—were dry.

The top of Kolana Rock played peek-a-boo as clouds drifted across the sky. The sweet scent of wet grass filled the air. Occasionally, a cold breeze blew, and I heard the thunderous sound of rocks falling.

There wasn’t much fall color along the trail, but the vigorous walk was peaceful. The path wound up and down over rocky areas and granite slabs, weaving in and out of sandy forests, always with a view of the water.

I last visited in June 2011 when the bridges were impassable. This time, I crossed them with a heavy heart, remembering the tragic day when two doctors from Southern California were swept to their deaths. In years with heavy snowpack followed by hot temperatures, the rapid snowmelt raises water levels until the current flows over the bridges.

(Watch the YouTube video to see the falls in full action only days before the doctors attempted to cross.)

There are many bridges to walk across.

Rancheria Falls was only four-and-a-half miles from the bridges. There’s a backpackers’ camp there that I would have liked to explore. However, since I got a late start, it was too long of a walk for this trip. Instead, I found a spot on the deserted trail, sat down with an obstructed view of the water, and enjoyed my lunch.

The sun never came out, and on the return walk, it began to lightly rain. Despite the wet and cold (46 degrees), as the Ranger said, it was a beautiful day; and I believe I did indeed find fall.