The Ageless Beauty of the Wilderness

September 17, 2024
East Glacier Trail, Tongass National Forest, Juneau, Alaska
Total distance walked: 5 miles

During our journey through the Tongass National Forest, we were graced with the sight of cascading waterfalls, tranquil forest glens, and breathtaking glacier vistas—each a gem in its own unique way.

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The Trail of Time and the East Glacier Trail.

Our adventure began on the Trail of Time. Interestingly, this part of the forest is just over a century old. Prior to that it was covered by the Mendenhall Glacier. As the glacier retreated over time, it revealed the path we walked on. Following a short stroll on nearly level ground, we turned onto the East Glacier Trail.

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Trail of Time

After seeing the sign at the trailhead, I secretly hoped to spot a bear. For a fleeting moment I thought we did. What we mistook for a bear turned out to be two boisterous dogs who joyfully trailed us until their owner called them away.

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A bear trail!

From there, the path ascended sharply, rising 800 feet. This was the most challenging hike we’ve undertaken in Alaska. We navigated skillfully crafted steps, steep mountainside climbs equipped with protective cables, and sturdy wooden staircases—climbing 198 stairs to be precise—all leading us to the trail’s highest point. At the top we were rewarded with a stunning view of Mendenhall Glacier.

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The easy steps at the beginning of the incline.

As we hiked through the lush greenery, the dense canopy occasionally opened to reveal glimpses of the glacier’s icy expanse.

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First peek at Mendenhall Glacier.
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First view of Mendenhall Lake.

Though cool outside, the forest was thick with humidity occasionally fogging my glasses. It carried the earthy scent of damp soil and decaying leaves.

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Devil’s Club

The canopy above filtered the sunlight into a soft, green glow, creating a serene and almost mystical atmosphere.

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The trail at times was challenging with roots and rocks underfoot, but the beauty around us made every step worthwhile.

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The trail.

The lush vegetation, towering trees, and the sheer diversity of plant life created a sense of wonder and discovery. It’s a place where we felt deeply connected to nature.

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An interesting scene: a tree trunk growing a fern and mushrooms.

After all the climbing, the full grandeur of Mendenhall Glacier came into view. It was both breathtaking and humbling. The glacier showed the immense power and beauty of nature.

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Mendenhall Glacier

On our return, a brief detour took us to AJ Falls. The gentle cascade of the waterfall gave us a peaceful moment before continuing on.

The last leg of our journey through the Tongass National Forest—which covers about 16 million acres in southeast Alaska—left us in awe of the ageless beauty of the wilderness.

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We concluded our hike by finishing the out-and-back Trail of Time where our adventure had begun. Walking this path felt like a journey through history. Information panels at a viewing deck told the story of the glacier’s retreat over time.

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Heading back.

After the hike, we stopped by one of our favorite spots in Juneau for some delicious fish & chips at the Alaska Fish & Chips Company at the Flight Deck, before heading back to the ship.

What a wonderful day!